Iceland Part XV: Past to Present
My Journey: Difficult Hikes, Springs, and Viking Dinner.
5/2/2024, Thursday
We were up and moving before the campground opened so we moved on with the day with the plan to stop and pay as we passed back by.
Our first stop of the day was the town of Reykholt. The home of Snorri Sturluson. It is also the location of Snorralaug, a medieval bath. Unfortunately, you can’t take a dip in it, but it is a pretty neat location.
Snorralaug
The one I went to yesterday reminds me a lot of this one. It is also the inspiration I think of the cold pool at Sky Lagoon. This is what, in my mind, a hot bath should look like.
Barnafoss
Just down the road is a pair of waterfalls; Barnafoss and Hraunfossar. Both are off the same parking lot and there is a riding trail that takes you to both. It is an easy walk and if you are in the area it is worth the look. Barnafoss is a cannon fall with little branching shoots.
Hraunfossar Waterfall is completely different. It runs along the shore of the river just below the other fall and all along the way, water seems to be coming from nowhere and just pouring down the sides of the river bank.
Hraunfossar Waterfall
From there, we headed to the the parking area of Husafell for the hike to Selgil Hot Spring. This is one that I really wanted to find but the reviews were unclear on how to get to it. The map made it worse as there were multiple routes. We took the path that puts the river on your right as you walk up stream. We followed the bank until it became unpassable without risking your feet getting in the river. We back tracked and took the ridge route. I was walking ahead to find the path. I found the path down to the waterfall next to the hot spring and went back to catch up with Dez. He had missed my turn and had to back track down to me. He was thirsty and without water. I had gone through my supply, so we took the path down to the falls and filled up the water bottle there.
Once we made it to the waterfall, you could se the hot spring but could not find a way to get to it without crossing the river. I could not get comfortable with a method to attempt.
The Waterfall at Selgil Hot Spring
So while the trail map has you crossing the river part of the way there at the falls, I could not find a path that felt safe. However, you will note the gray path that runs on the opposite side. That is the path I think you need to take and we saw a guy easily walking that path as we headed out. So, I would try to see the river on your left as you walk up stream. Stay on the same side of the river as the spring.
Map to Selgil Hot Spring
Before leaving the area, I tried to see the Husafell Canyon baths but they were closed for the season and not visible from the lot. Definitely a place I would want to go if here in season.
Husafell
Now, we headed back to the campsite to pay. The lady at the campground told us about a nearby hot spring that she said was very impressive so we headed that way.
You can see the steam rising from Deildartunguhver miles away. It was just a short detour to get to the guysir/spring.
Warning
The spring produces a lot of water per minute from the figure. There is a nearby food truck and a thermal bath, Krauma, that I did not know existed until I was here. I would check it out if ever back this way.
From the hot spring, we passed back through Borgarnes. This time, to stop at the N1 gas station for souvenirs and to try the gas station hamburger. This is the best damn fast food burger I ever had and the sauce is amazing. Across the street from the N1 is the Nettó. We stopped there to get some chocolate and I needed a memory card for the Insta 360. I found a card that works at the Tækniborg ehf computer store.
Back on the road and heading towards today’s hot thermal bath. To get there, we had to once again cross the bridge, then go through a tunnel that goes under the fjord.
As we headed to the thermal bath, we saw a rainbow and we passed yet another waterfall.
Hvammsvik Hot Springs
Hvammsvik Hot Springs has probably the most utilitarian and rustic feel of the baths, however, they also were the most class divided with the economy changing rooms outside and the fancy ones inside. There really is no need for the fancy changing space. The pools are the same no matter what you pay.
This one had the hottest hot tub and the cold bath is an artificial tidal pool. You can also just wade into the ocean water. On the wall in the clubhouse is a set of photos of cars and trucks getting into trouble in Iceland.
Car Trouble
Back on the road, we headed into Reykjavik and then followed our original path toward the Golden Circle to the camp we would stay the night in. This would put us real close to the farm where we would have our horseback ride the next day.
How it Changed in a Few Days
We went a little further than our camp so that we could have dinner at a different Viking/Norse themed restaurant. I could not help but be impressed by the changing colors of the landscape as things turned green.
Ingólfsskáli Viking Restaurant
The restaurant is in a longhouse made to look more authentic than our first Norse restaurant.
As we entered the restaurant, they asked if we had reservations. Then, the hostess looked around at the empty room and said I think I know where I can seat you. If you are here in the busy season, you may need reservations.
Me
We ordered the seasonal meat tray to split and each of us got the lamb. I ordered a mead and we had dessert to follow. The meat tray came with horse, pork, and goose. The horse and pork were very good but the goose tasted a bit gamey. The lamb was some of the best I have ever had. The mead was a full horns worth and was very good as well. The dessert was also great.
I enjoyed the restaurant’s aesthetic as well. It is not a reproduction but it is less cartoon Viking than Hotel Viking.
Ingólfsskáli Viking Restaurant
From the restaurant, we headed back to the town for our last night in the van. We found a place to park at Reykjamörk Hveragerði Campsite.
This was the worse of all the campsites that we stayed in. The kitchen was a wreck. However, it put us near the farm for tomorrow.
Bathroom at Reykjamörk Hveragerði Campsite
Lessons Learned and Tips:
Do not forget to take water on hikes and remember the water is more of an option to drink than in the states.
If you are climbing a mountain or crossing a river, you are on the wrong trail.