Iceland Part X: Fire and Ice
My Journey: Volcanic Stuff, Big Waterfalls, Canyons, and Winter, lots of Winter
4/30/2024, Tuesday
We delayed our departure this day to give some time for roads to clear. This was to be a long day of driving in the snow. But first breakfast.
Before leaving the town of Egilsstaðir, we filled up the tank. I had wanted to go to Hengifoss. However, due to to the weather I chose to not try for it and that a post card would do.
Just off the Ring Road is a Foot Bridge. You can park and walk to get a view over Jökulsá á Brú one of several canyons that are on the itinerary today.
In order to get to Stuðlagil Canyon Main Access, one had to take a dirt road, however, it is in good condition. By the time we got to the parking lot, we both really had to go. Many of the public restrooms in Iceland require you to pay to use like this one.
Pay 230 Icelandic Krona to Use WC
Stuðlagil Canyon Main Access has a parking lot and access to the canyon by a long set of metal stairs. It does not have access to the lower portion of the canyon. If the road Is open, you can access the canyon on the other bank as well.
I was glad I had walked the stairs at work every day for months to prepare for the trip. This was the 3rd long climb we had done so far. Once back to the top, we headed back to the Ring Road. These canyons are one of the few sights that I think the snow and ice detracted from. I would love to see this in summer.
Stuðlagil Canyon
After the Stuðlagil Canyon, we headed toward the largest waterfall in Iceland. This was also some of the most desolate and snow covered area of Iceland that we traversed.
Somewhere
Again, we proceeded with confidence due to the accurate information provided by the Icelandic travel apps.
Mountains and expansive valleys in each direction. The road and power lines were often the only sign of humanity we saw.
Somewhere else
We finally arrived at the Dettifoss (West Side) parking lot. The snow here was deep and I definitely was glad for the wet weather hiking boots and two layers of wool socks. In some places, due to the snow, the trail had been re-routed.
This is another sight that I think has a completely different feel when the snow and ice are gone. Impressive warterfall and I would love to see this from both sides if I am ever here again.
Dettifoss
The walk back was just as brutal a hike in the snow. It literally was up hill both ways.
Break Time
Back on the road to the geothermal area that surrounds Lake Myvatn. More snow, more ice, but there is warmth and steam in our near future. This was yet another long deceleration drive.
One of the things I had been looking forward to was this Hot Spring Shower. I had planned to have a photo taken of me showering here but it was not working today. I hope it is if I am ever here again. It had been working at some point as there was trash left by previous visitors. This is a problem that I have noticed in multiple wild hot springs.
Hot Spring Shower
Once you get back on the Ring Road from the shower, you are basically in the tourist area with the main feature being the geothermal areas, baths, volcanic cones, and the lake. Had it been summer, I would have wanted to drive around the lake.
Námafjall
The geothermal area here has fumaroles, pools, and mud pots all set in an other worldly landscape. It is not Yellowstone, but it pretty damn cool. I don’t recall seeing any vents like this at Yellowstone.
The fumaroles here are spectacular. There are several of them to enjoy unlike the park at Geysir Center. The paths here just kinda meander about. Stay on the paths and they are not as clearly marked as the ones elsewhere but they are there for your protection.
Fumarole
There is also the Myvatn Geothermal Area right around the corner but it is not much to look at as it is right next to a power plant. You really only need to plan to see the main geothermal area here. There is a nice view point along the road as you go over the volcanic mountain.
Myvatn Lookout
From the look out on the top of the volcano it just a short drive to the Nature Baths.
Mývatn Nature Baths
This bath has water with lots of silica in it so it feels very slippery. It was my favorite in terms of the way the water feels. This is one you definitely do not want to take your jewelry in with you.
The Hot Spring shower might not be working but these were. Can’t skinny dip though.
These pools have warm and cold spots you just kinda have to find your sweet spot.
This time we could stay as long as we wanted since it was the middle of the day, but we always seem ready to go after 2 hours. We never seem to really need the 3 hours I planned to stay at each one.
Mývatn Nature Baths
All of these thermal baths have little restaurants on the inside. This time I fell for temptation and had this rye bread with cheese and smoked trout. It was really good.
From the thermal bath, we headed off to explore an underground hot spring and then on to another waterfall.
Lessons Learned and Tips:
Please take your trash with you.
There really is no one out here this time of year.