Italy & Greece Part X: Mycenae and Athens
My Journey: Mycenae and Athens
4/5/2023 Nafplio
We left Nafplio in the morning and made our way by bus to Mycenae.
"Treasury of Atreus" or "Tomb of Agamemnon"
The Treasury site is separate from the rest of the park. We met our local tour guide here. There was some confusion with the local guide about whether we were the right group. Our main tour guide was all like “No, this is right. Now, get going with the tour.”
"Treasury of Atreus" or "Tomb of Agamemnon"
I had seen this tomb in books and even in documentaries but nothing does it justice. This is one of the coolest things I have ever seen and it might just be my favorite of this trip. The acoustics in the tomb are amazing. When we went, there was a hive of bees in residence. They sounded so loud in the tomb. By the way, this style of tomb is called a “beehive” tomb.
I just can’t stop taking panoramic shots, lol. I managed to sneak off into the tomb between tour groups and had the whole thing to myself. Next to the tomb were the remains of some buildings that we visited as well. Then, we were back on the bus and off to the rest of the site.
Inside the "Treasury of Atreus" or "Tomb of Agamemnon"
We then got back on the bus and headed the short distance to the main portion of the Archeological Site. There were many other tombs and what not scattered about and it would have taken a day to see most of it.
Archeological Site of Mycenae
Once we were back off the bus, the tour guide began her long-winded, standing still, talk so I headed off on my own. There were a few more tombs scattered about that I took some time to visit before heading up to the palace.
Among them is the Vaulted Tomb of Clytemnestra. This tomb is another good example of a beehive tomb.
Vaulted Tomb of Clytemnestra
Lions' Gate of Mycenae
As you head up the path to the palace, you pass through the magnificent Lions’ Gate. Learning about the archaeology of this place is something I fondly remember from high school humanities. This was one of the few pictures in the text. I have wanted to see this ever since.
One has to be patient to get pictures without others in the background. Even then, they are hard to avoid. This was such a nice day and I probably should have been covered in sunscreen but I was enjoying myself too much. I just kept moving my way up the path.
Lions' Gate of Mycenae
And there is damn near something amazing everywhere you look.
I walked all the way to the top and down the backside to within sight of the subterranean cistern but due to time constraints, I did not make it all the way there. The view from the palace was absolutely spectacular.
The View From the Palace
Archeological Museum of Mycenae
I passed Dez coming out of the Museum as I was going in. He told me there was a lot to see and there sure was!
The museum is arranged so that you kind of feel like you are descending into the tomb. There was a lot of stone and furnace glass to see, along with the bronze and pottery.
And of course coins, lots of coins.
Coins of Historical Period
The museum, including the Treasury exhibit, has quite a collection of gold, gems, among other valuable things. The gold work is mind blowing. The glass beads are amazing but the gemstone beads gleam like they are on display in a modern shop. So much to inspire my work here.
The highlight of the museum is the Treasury exhibit. All the items are crammed in the center and on the outer wall of a round room reminiscent of the beehive tombs. In the case of the Mask of “Agomenon,” it is a reproduction of the original in Athens. Whether original or a reproduction, the room is an impressive collection.
Meanwhile, Dez and his Dad walked to the top where they took their own panoramics.
I think he enjoyed the ruins as much as I did. It was a beautiful day for it.
I ran into his mom, resting on a bench outside the museum, and she told me they were up the hill. So, I went off looking for them and rendezvoused at the Lions’ Gate.
So, time to take some pictures with the gate.
There was more here than just ruins, from cats to dogs to flowers. I would have loved to have had all day to enjoy nature and history here.
Back on the bus, we were through and off to our next stop.
Fichti
In the town of Fichti, we stopped at the Mycenaean Center for a demo on historical pottery making where we learned about how the ancient pottery was made and how the reproductions are done.
Me with the Experimental Kiln
Of all the demos, this was the most informative. There really was no sales pitch filling to it until they shifted to a discussion of the historical jewelry making. In the end, it is a souvenir shop. I would say, though, worth the pottery demo.
Mykines
After the pottery shop, we stopped for lunch, unlike the place when we were on our last day in Italy, we had a choice of what to eat here. I chose to have the saganaki (fried cheese) and babe had the lamb. I enjoyed my snack, but he was not impressed with the lamb. To be honest, I am just not into these places the tour company has us go to. More often than not, they left me wanting.
Corinth Canal
After passing through the city of Corinth, the bus stopped at the Corinth Canal, giving us time to walk across the pedestrian bridge for some photo ops.
Dez and I at the Corinth Canal
The view was spectacular! The only thing that would have made it better would have been if a train crossed the bridge or a boat had traveled the canal. The water looked absolutely gorgeous.
Megara Gulf Shore
After leaving the canal, we followed the shore of the Megara Gulf. The road was beautiful with the gulf on one side, and often, cliffs on the other. The highway ran through a network of tunnels, and for some reason, I find taking pictures in tunnels irresistible.
Athens
The bus wound its way through the streets of Athens before delivering us to our hotel. We had a great view from our hotel balcony of the street below.
We headed off to explore the shops and to look for food. I had two things I was still looking for; eye beads, and a labrys charm because it is hella gay and fem. So, off to the streets we went.
Along the way, we enjoyed the Greek and Roman Ruins while avoiding the pick pockets and tourist scams. Hold on to your stuff and do not talk to them.
View of Parthenon from Areos Street
The shopping trip took us by many ancient buildings and ruins, restaurants that cater to tourists, and shops, lots of shops.
Finally, we found a store with beads. There were plastic beads mixed in with the glass, so be careful to know what you are getting. The price really was no bargain, so I only bought a few for the experience.
With the shopping behind us, we went looking for food. Before settling on a restaurant in the tourist area, we had ventured into the more locally populated streets. Where to be honest, we were a little concerned for our safety as it would be dark soon.
With dinner behind us, we headed back to our hotel for the night.
Back at the hotel, we took some time to take in the view from the balcony. What a view!
The Parthenon as seen from our balcony.
Of all my days on this trip, this day was perhaps my favorite; book ended by the Tomb on one side and by the Parthenon on the other. I have been inspired to start making Mycenaean pieces like this amethyst necklace.
Mycenaean inspired necklace.
I have made many pieces since getting home inspired by the Greek jewelry we saw on our trip. With the most fertile ground being Mycenaean bead work.
Lessons Learned and Tips:
Don’t forget sunscreen.
Don’t forget to take pictures of museum labels.
Enjoy any view that is uninterrupted by people.